Tank It Easy Beefs Reef Sho Tank
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  1. #1

    Exclamation Return Pump Advice

    For my new 250g, I am having some issues figuring out the numbers... There are 2 overflows that are 1-inch each. I will have ball valves installed to dial them in, according to the type return pump(s) used. With that said, what would be the recommended return rate I would need for the return pump or pumps?

    I am not using the return to add more "flow" into the tank as I have 2 powerheads that produce 5800gph. This is somewhere around 23 times turn over in the tank. I just want to be able to safely return the sump water to the DT without stressing out the pump.

    Your advice is very appreciated.

  2. #2
    Colony Tangency's Avatar
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    I think as long as you place the ball valve after your return intake you won't damage the pump. The flow in a sump is typically gentle and the majority of your turnover is from your powerheads -- like you have described. The flow from your overflow into the sump will probably be dictated by the splashing, gurgling, and flushing noises from your overflow. Just keep dialing your valve until your durso can equalize and breathe.

  3. #3
    CLR Tester Emisis's Avatar
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    If your using Durso returns, here are the flow rates for PVC

    http://www.dursostandpipes.com/faq/4...urso-standpipe

    Ball valves on the output side of your pump OR are you talking ball valves on the return side of the overflow? Because if it is the latter....your asking for trouble in the future. Ball valve on the output side of the pump is OK, but I would place a "T" in-line also so when you throttle it down (if this is what you are going to do) the "extra" water has a place to go/ bypass the pump and return to your sump. If you block off the output side of the pump you are putting unnecessary back pressure on the pump itself and will in effect be working it to death. Although all of the pumps we use in the hobby are centrifugal pumps and not a positive displacement type pump, you will be placing back pressure on the pump itself causing it to do more work creating more heat. Easiest way to "throttle" your pump is to buy a pump with an adjustable intake thus cutting out expensive ball valves in the process.


    IMG_20140203_181622_650.jpg


    Example picture above, It gives you an idea of what Im talking about. I had to do this to a pump that was too much for my overflows.
    Last edited by Emisis; 02-03-2014 at 06:26 PM.

  4. #4
    Benevolent Dictator Herbie's Avatar
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    turning down the outflow is esentially adding head pressure like the pump has to push the water out of your basement or a longer run from your sump. if the pump is rated for the extra pressure it shouldn't be a problem but @Emisis has a great solution there that prevents unnecessary wear(heat) because of extra head pressure just for flow reductions sake. You could go a step further and use that extra outflow from the return to run a reactor if that's part of your plan too. I might throw out there that gate valves are usually preferred over ball valves in the hobby because they are self cleaning and having recently experienced feather dusters in a ball valve I'll definitely be using all gates on my next build. It's about twice the price, but I think probably worth it for the peace of mind. adding an extra union at that outflow will also give you an convvenient WC drain if run a manifold so each output can be operated individually. Let us know what you come up with.

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